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Hiking near Gura Humorului: from the Ariniș hill path to Pietrele Doamnei

Four walks we do ourselves, from a two hour loop on the hill above town to a full day on the Rarău massif. With timings, trail markings, what to pack and where to eat afterwards.

Published on 5 min read

Pietrele Doamnei, the limestone rocks of the Rarău massif, at sunset

The forest starts right behind our courtyard. That is the first thing guests notice when they step onto the terrace with their coffee. The second thing they ask is: "So where can we walk?" Here is the answer, with trails ordered by distance from the villas and by effort.

All four can be done without special gear. Boots or trail shoes with a good sole, a windproof layer and water. That's it.

1. Piatra Pinului and Piatra Șoimului, the hill above town

The closest trail starts at the bottom of the Șoimul ski slope, in Ariniș Park, 7 minutes by car from the villas. It is really two recently built paths, Piatra Pinului (1.9 km) and Piatra Șoimului (1.9 km), that link into a loop. You climb the north side of the Voroneț ridge, from 470 m to almost 760 m, through beech and spruce forest.

At the top there is a six storey wooden observation tower. From the upper deck you see the whole town, the Moldova valley and, on a clear day, the Pietrele Doamnei rocks on Rarău. You come down on the other path or, if you want to spare your knees, on the chairlift (it runs in summer too, at weekends).

  • Time: 2.5 hours with breaks for the full loop
  • Elevation gain: about 440 m
  • Difficulty: easy, fine for children from 6 years up
  • Tip: with small children, ride the chairlift up and walk down. You get the view for free and the descent is gentle.
The hill above Gura Humorului, with sheep on the pasture and the town's name written on the slope
The hill above town, with the pastures on the Voroneț ridge. Photo: LukaszKatlewa, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

2. Voroneț and Humor, walking between the monasteries

For a long walk without a real climb, try the road between the two painted monasteries next to us. Our villas are on Strada Mănăstirea Humorului itself, so you can leave straight from the gate and head north: an hour along the roadside, through the village, brings you to Humor Monastery. The carved andesite marker of Via Transilvanica, the 1,400 km trail that crosses Bucovina, stands in front of the monastery and makes a good photo stop.

Towards Voroneț, the way passes through town and then follows the Voroneț stream. It is about 6 km to the monastery, on tarmac and path. Put together, the two make an easy day with lunch in Gura Humorului in the middle.

  • Time: 1 hour to Humor, 1.5 hours to Voroneț
  • Difficulty: very easy, almost flat
  • Tip: reach Voroneț before 10 in the morning, while the courtyard is still quiet. There is more on the monasteries in our guide to 10 places to visit.

3. Rarău, the Pietrele Doamnei loop

This is the hike we recommend to anyone staying at least three nights. Rarău is 60 km away, about an hour and a quarter by car, through Câmpulung Moldovenesc and Pojorâta. From Pojorâta the Transrarău road climbs 16 km of paved hairpins to the Rarău chalet, above 1,500 m.

The Pietrele Doamnei loop starts in front of the chalet, marked with a blue cross. The path climbs through dwarf pine, passes a short section with chains (optional, it can be skipped) and reaches the plateau below the rocks. From there you have a 360 degree view: Giumalău, the Obcine hills, the Moldova valley. The white limestone towers rise straight out of the spruce forest. On the way down the path enters the woods and drops gently back to the chalet.

Pietrele Doamnei seen from the Rarău plateau, with low cloud and patches of snow
Pietrele Doamnei in early spring, with snow still on the plateau. Photo: Mihai Burlacu, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0
  • Time: 2 hours 15 minutes for the loop, with a break at the top
  • Distance: about 7 km, 350 m of climbing
  • Difficulty: medium, the rocky section needs care and grippy shoes
  • Season: May to October. In winter the road may be closed, ask us first.
  • Tip: leave the villas at 8 in the morning. You get to the top before the midday cloud hides the rocks, and there is time for polenta at the chalet.

4. For strong legs: Via Transilvanica across the Obcine hills

Via Transilvanica enters Bucovina at Putna and passes Sucevița, Vatra Moldoviței, Vama and Humor Monastery before climbing towards Câmpulung. Every kilometre has its own carved andesite marker, each one different, and you can collect a stamp for each stage in the hiker's passport.

The finest one day stage near us runs from Vama to Humor Monastery over Obcina Mare: about 20 km through hay meadows and forest, with scattered villages and wide views towards Rarău. It fits into one long summer day. We drop you at Vama in the morning and you walk back almost to the villas by evening.

The village of Vama seen from above, with forested hills and Rarău behind, at sunset
Vama, where the stage starts, with Rarău on the horizon. Photo: Curcan Ionel, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0
  • Time: 6 to 7 hours
  • Difficulty: medium to hard, because of the length rather than the terrain
  • Marking: an orange T on white, plus the stone markers
  • Tip: download the map to your phone. There is no signal on parts of the route.

Good to know

  • Weather changes fast in the Obcine hills. Even in July, pack an extra layer.
  • Bears live in the surrounding forests. We have had no incidents, but talk loudly on forest paths and don't leave food out in the courtyard.
  • Mushrooms. From August to October locals pick porcini on the same trails. If you are not an expert, admire them and buy from the market instead.
  • After the hike, the gazebo in the courtyard is heated and the barbecue is ready. Tell us in the morning and we leave wood and charcoal out.

We can print the trail maps for you at check-in. And if your group includes small children or grandparents, let us know so we can match the trail to you.

  • #drumetii
  • #gura-humorului
  • #rarau
  • #via-transilvanica
  • #natura